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The McJimsey, Kibbe, and Larson types

Belle Northrup, Harriet McJimsey and David Kibbe developed concepts of appearance types at different times, each accompanied by recommendations that highlight the beauty of every type.

Dwyn Larson used the Kibbe system, but some key types, though named the same, differ significantly in appearance.

In the comments on our profile, we noticed that the same names for different types in the Kibbe and Larson systems often confuse you and make it harder to identify yourself in these two typing systems. That’s why we decided to write a separate, detailed article to explain the differences between the style types of Northrup, McJimsey, Kibbe, and Larson.
Northrup, McJimsey and Kibbe style types
  • Belle Northrup, a professor at Teachers College, Columbia University in the 1930s, was the first to apply the concept of yin and yang to describe women's appearances and style. She didn't use the familiar type names (like McJimsey or Kibbe) but described female types through animal metaphors and the essence of personality. The Belle Northrup system is the first attempt to describe women's style through the balance of yin and yang, using both animal metaphors and generalized archetypes that were later formalized by her followers.

  • Harriet McJimsey developed her system in the 1960s, building on Belle Northrup’s yin/yang theory. She identified six style archetypes: Dramatic, Natural (sometimes called Athletic), Classic, Romantic, Gamine, and Ingenue. Her system was designed to help women harmonize their clothing choices with their natural lines and features, considering both body and face, and allowed for composite types (mixes of archetypes).
Although Harriet’s types were described somewhat narrowly and the recommendations were difficult to apply in practice, the theory of different types of lines in appearance was thoroughly explained and beautifully illustrated.
The book went through several revised editions and was published under new titles in 1963 and 1973, until Harriet McJimsey passed away in 1988.

David Kibbe introduced his system in the 1980s with the book "Metamorphosis." Kibbe’s system is based on five main style families (Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Gamine, Romantic), but expands them into 13 detailed types (IDs) by blending yin/yang balance, bone structure, flesh, and facial features. Kibbe eliminated the Ingenue type, believing it did not fit his vision for adult women, and instead created nuanced blends like Soft Gamine.
5 main Kibbe types of 1987:
Pure Dramatic (Yang, Bright, Flamboyant)
100% Yang. Height from 165 cm and above. Narrow, elongated, angular bone structure; straight and defined facial features.
Pure Natural Soft blend of Yang and Yin with Yang dominance.
Height from 160 cm to very tall. Slightly elongated and slightly broad, slightly angular bone structure with softened angles; slightly broad, open facial features.
Pure Gamine
Height up to 165 cm. Sharp contrast of Yin and Yang. Delicate, angular bone structure; slightly sharp facial features; bright eyes.
Pure Romantic (Yin, Soft, Gentle)
Height up to 165 cm. 100% Yin. Delicate, slightly broad, rounded bone structure; rounded facial features.
Pure Classic
Height from 160 to 172 cm. Harmonious balance of Yin and Yang. Feminine, graceful bone structure; proportionate facial features.
12 Kibbe's types
Naturals, Gamines, and Classics blend with either the Dramatic or Romantic to form 8 additional Kibbe types:

Dramatic + Romantic = Soft Dramatic
Romantic + Dramatic = Theatrical Romantic
Dramatic + Natural = Flamboyant Natural
Romantic + Natural = Soft Natural
Dramatic + Classic = Dramatic Classic
Romantic + Classic = Soft Classic
Dramatic + Gamine = Flamboyant Gamine
Romantic + Gamine = Soft Gamine
Типажи Кибби
Over time, Kibby abandoned distinguishing Pure Classic, Pure Natural, and Pure Gamine as separate types.
Типажи Кибби
In his Metamorphoses in 1987, David Kibbe detailed the characteristics of each of the 13 types and provided complete recommendations for hairstyle, makeup, silhouettes, fabrics, and accessories for each. Kibbe describes only lines and textures, giving women full freedom to choose their own style.
The Kibbe system is still the most popular among stylists, considering all fashion trends.
Its main advantages are simplicity and effectiveness.
Detailed Kibbe clothing recommendations for all types are available on our website in the Wardrobe section. You can find out your Kibbe type for free in our Telegram bot via the link in the website header.
Larson's style types
In 2011, artist Dwyn Larson is releasing a book called 20 Types of Beauty, which mixes together all of Kibby's types and recommendations. She ended up with a total of 24 types.
It is noticeable that the Dramatic and Romantic types according to Larson have changed.
  • Larson's Romantic type, by description, resembles more the Theatrical Romantic or Kibbe's Soft Classic.
  • The Dramatic type, according to Larson, acquires traits of Soft Dramatic or Kibbe's Flamboyant Natural. By the way, a similar definition of Dramatic existed with McJimsey. Kibbe's pure Dramatic becomes a Dramatic-Gamine in Larson's system.
  • Larson proposed as many as 4 new classic types.
  • Larson described a new type by combining Gamines and Naturals into a type called Buoyant, which represents something like an overweight Gamine.
In addition to detailed illustrations, Larson described the psychological profile of each type and assigned it a social function.
For example, Larson describes gamines as:

"... you are tactful, easy to communicate with, can be calm and patient, you can easily fall in love and enter relationships. A peacemaker – you follow rules and help others do the same. You need peace/calm to do your work, you strive to get all the facts before acting, you see 'right/wrong' from the point of view of facts..."

The height of the key types has also changed:

  1. ROMANTIC: delicately rounded beauty, a festive girl with a soft character. Ovaries dominate. Height from 160 cm to 170 cm.
  2. DRAMATIC: strongly angular, dynamic. Thyroid gland dominates. Height from 175 cm and above.
  3. GAMINE: delicately angular thinkers. Small, energetic, cheerful, and sociable. Pituitary gland dominates. Height up to 160 cm.
  4. NATURAL: with strongly rounded beauty, enduring. Adrenal glands dominate. Height above average, from 167 cm to 180 cm.
Paradox: Naturals and Gamines in Larson, as well as in Kibbe, have fundamentally different bone structures, but this did not stop Dwin Larson from combining them into one type.

At the same time, it is unclear which silhouette lines Gamine-Naturals should follow; Larson did not leave specific recommendations for their appearance, apart from very general expressions.

Therefore, we recommend all "Gamine-Naturals" to find out their Kibbe type.
Cons of the Larson system
All 24 Larson types are described in great detail, so now every woman can find herself in her illustrations.

But was it necessary to complicate things so much? Larson got so carried away with the types that she completely forgot about the wardrobe for them, she used David Kibbe’s recommendations in a random order, clearly not enhancing the women’s appearance with clothing and causing a lot of confusion in the type definitions.

We will try to make your life easier, because all of Larson’s new types = mixed Kibbe types.
If you know your Larson type and cannot find it in Kibbe types, use our hints:

  1. Gamine = Pure Gamine or Soft Gamine or Flamboyant Gamine
  2. Natural = Pure Natural
  3. Romantic = Pure Romantic or Soft Classic or Soft Natural or Theatrical Romantic
  4. Dramatic = Pure Dramatic or Flamboyant Natural or Soft Dramatic or Dramatic Classic
  5. Dynamic (Classic-Gamine) = Dramatic Classic or Flamboyant Gamine
  6. Charismic (Classic-Romantic) = Soft Classic
  7. Sophistic (Classic-Dramatic) = Dramatic Classic
  8. Classic (Classic-Natural) = Pure Natural
  9. Lively Gamine (Gamine-Natural with Gamine dominance) = Pure Gamine or Soft Gamine or Pure Natural
  10. Lively Natural (Gamine-Natural with Natural dominance) = Flamboyant Natural or Pure Gamine or Flamboyant Gamine
  11. Friendly Gamine (Gamine-Romantic with Gamine dominance) = Soft Gamine
  12. Friendly Romantic (Gamine-Romantic with Romantic dominance) = Soft Gamine
  13. Animated Natural (Natural-Romantic with Natural dominance) = Soft Natural
  14. Animated Romantic (Natural-Romantic with Romantic dominance) = Soft Natural
  15. Expressive Dramatic (Gamine-Dramatic with Dramatic dominance) = Flamboyant Gamine or Flamboyant Natural
  16. Expressive Gamine (Gamine-Dramatic with Gamine dominance) = Flamboyant Gamine or Pure Natural
  17. Flaming Natural (Natural-Dramatic with Natural dominance) = Flamboyant Natural or Pure Natural
  18. Flaming Dramatic (Natural-Dramatic with Dramatic dominance) = Flamboyant Natural or Soft Dramatic
  19. Trembling Romantic (Romantic-Dramatic with Romantic dominance) = Theatrical Romantic
  20. Trembling Dramatic (Romantic-Dramatic with Dramatic dominance) = Soft Dramatic
  • When determining the Larson typing, analyzing appearance by separate elements can easily lead to mistakes.
  • Larson has no instructions for verifying her body type, for example, through test fitting, as can be done with Kibbe types.
  • Dwyn Larson is not a stylist (this is noticeable from her appearance), nor a theorist — her approach was not systematic; she used David Kibbe’s recommendations at her discretion, chaotically picking and choosing his advice for her types as she saw fit.
  • By identifying your type according to Larson, you will not receive her clothing recommendations. She left no new information on fabrics, prints, silhouettes, or wardrobes for her newly created types. Therefore, however you determine your lines, you will end up with David Kibbe’s recommendations again or be forced to seek a stylist’s services.
Using illustrations by Dwin Larson to create your own image won't work. She did not leave practical recommendations or clear transformations for the numerous types she created.
We recommend you start your transformation with Kibbe’s guidelines to confidently choose among fashion items those bright trends that suit you best. Only then, if you wish, continue exploring your metaphysics through the systems of Larson, Zyla, Kitchener, Mamenko, and many many other followers of the Yin-Yang theory created by Belle Northrup.

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